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The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) was founded in 1973 to represent the collective interests of the fragrance industry worldwide. Membership is open to all countries and currently comprises the national associations of fragrance manufacturers from Australia, Europe, the Far East and North and South America.

From the RQA AGM 11th March 2001 London : Safety address by Tony Burfield (with more recent additions from the IFRA in italics)

Banned IFRA essential oil list 

Cade oil crude Juniperus oxycedrus (carcinogen) 
Calamus oil Acorus calamus (some forms contain high levels of the carcinogen 
b-asarone) 
Chenopodium ambroisoides oil (acute oral toxicity) 
Costus root oil, absolute & concrete Saussurea costus (sensitiser) 
Elecampane oil Inula helenium (sensitiser) 
Fig leaf absolute Ficus carica (sensitiser) (Horseradish oil) 
Armoracia rusticana (toxic, irritant) (IFRA has banned 
allyl isothiocynate therefore effectively prohibiting use of Horseradish)
Mustard oil Brassica nigra (toxic; irritant) 
Peru balsam Myroxylon pereirae (sensitiser) distilled oil is allowable
Sade tree oil ? (further details not to hand)
Savin oil (Juniperus sabina). (J. phoenicea oil allowable). 
Verbena oil Lippia citriodora (sensitiser) 
Tea absolute Thea sinensis (sensitiser) 
(Sassafras oil) Sassafras albidum (carcinogen) - effectively banned by 
imposing a limit on the carcinogen safrole limit of 0.01% in perfumes. 
Stryax gum Liquidamber orientalis and other L. spp. Only Liquidambar 
styraciflua var. macrophylla products produced by methods which give products not showing a potential for sensitisation should be used.(e.g. steam distillation, vacuum distillation, extraction with ethanol or hexane, neutralisation with aqueous alkali followed by solvent extraction. 
Wormwood oil Artemisia absinthium (neurotoxic) 


IFRA Restricted list 

Angelica root oil Angelica archangelica (phototoxic) 0.78% 
Bergamot oil expressed Citrus aurantium ssp. bergamia (phototoxic) 0.4% 
Bitter Orange oil Citrus aurantium (phototoxic) 1.4% 
Cassia oil Cinnamomum cassia (sensitiser) 0.2% 
Cinnamon bark Cinnamomum zeylanicum (sensitiser) 0.2%
Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils 
Cumin oil Cuminum cyminum (phototoxic) 0.4% 
Grapefruit expressed Citrus paradisi (phototoxic) 4%
Lemon oil cold pressed Citrus limonum (phototoxic) 2% 
Lime oil expressed Citrus aurantifolia (phototoxic) 0.7%
Tagetes oil (Marigold) & absolute Tagetes minuta (phototoxic) 0.05% 
Oakmoss absolute & Resinoid Evernia prunastri (sensitiser) 0.1% 
Peru Balsam (sensitiser) 0.4%
Petitgrain Mandarin Oil (phototoxic) 0.165%
Pinaceae oils to have a peroxide value of less than 10 millimoles peroxide 
per litre (sensitiser) 
Rue oil Ruta graveolens limit (phototoxic) 0.78% 
Verbena absolute Lippia citriodora (sensitiser) 0.2% 
Treemoss absolute Evernia furfuracea (sensitiser) 0.6% 

First Additional list for discussion: Should we also recommend that the following oils also not be used?:
 
Laurel leaf oil Laurus nobilis: many fragrance houses have internally 
imposed lists restricting or banning this product. 
Thuja occidentalis oil (neurotoxic) 
Tansy Tanacetum vulgare (neurotoxic) 
Pennyroyal Mentha pulegium/Hedeoma pulegioides and other high Pulegone oils 
(e.g. Micromeria
Parsley seed oil Petroselinum crispum (hepatoxic) 
Parsley leaf Petroselinum crispum (hepatoxic) 
Boldo oil Pneumus boldus (acute oral toxicity) 
Massoia oil (Cryptocaria massoia) Powerful irritant. 
Melaleuca bracteata oil. Methyl eugenol is a suspected carcinogen. 
We should not allow oils like M. bracteata (95% methyl eugenol) in AT? 

 

© Jane Ellwood
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